Sloan flushometers are the workhorses of commercial and institutional restrooms, known for their durability and water efficiency. However, like any mechanical device, they can encounter issues. When a flushometer malfunctions, it can lead to wasted water, unsanitary conditions, and frustrated users.

This comprehensive guide will equip you with the knowledge to diagnose and fix the most common Sloan flushometer problems, saving you time, money, and headaches. We’ll cover everything from basic checks to detailed repair steps, ensuring your restrooms are always in top working order.

Why Troubleshooting Your Sloan Flushometer is Crucial

• Water Conservation: A continuously running or improperly flushing flushometer can waste thousands of gallons of water annually, significantly impacting your utility bills.
• Hygiene & Sanitation: A non-flushing or weak-flushing toilet is a major hygiene concern, leading to unpleasant odors and potential health risks.
• Cost Savings: Identifying and fixing minor issues early can prevent more significant, costly repairs or even full unit replacements down the line.
• Longevity of Equipment: Proper maintenance and timely repairs extend the lifespan of your Sloan flushometers, maximizing your investment.
• User Satisfaction: A well-functioning restroom experience is vital for visitors and occupants, reflecting positively on your facility.

Before You Begin: Safety First & Essential Tools

Before attempting any repairs, always prioritize safety and gather the necessary tools.

Safety Precautions:

1. Shut Off Water Supply: ALWAYS turn off the main water supply to the flushometer at the control stop (angle stop) before disassembling any part of the unit. This is crucial to prevent flooding.
2. Release Pressure: After shutting off the water, press the flush handle to release any residual water pressure in the valve.
3. Wear Protective Gear: Gloves and eye protection are recommended to protect against potential splashes or sharp edges.

Essential Tools:

• Fixed Smooth-Jaw Wrench: For tightening or loosening couplings and covers without damaging the chrome finish. Avoid using pipe wrenches or adjustable wrenches that can mar the surface.
• Screwdriver (Flathead & Phillips): For control stop adjustments and disassembling certain models.
• Pliers (Optional): For stubborn parts, but use with caution to avoid damage.
• Small Brass Bristle Brush: Excellent for cleaning threads and small orifices.
• 100% Silicone Grease: For lubricating O-rings and gaskets during reassembly to ensure a proper seal and prevent wear.
• Replacement Parts (Genuine Sloan Recommended): Having common replacement parts on hand (diaphragm kits, handle repair kits, O-rings) can significantly speed up repairs.
• Bucket/Rags: For catching any residual water.

Understanding Your Sloan Flushometer: Key Components

While Sloan produces various models (Royal, Regal, Optima, G2, etc.), many internal components and their functions are similar. Familiarizing yourself with these parts will aid in troubleshooting.

• Control Stop (Angle Stop): The valve that controls the water supply to the flushometer. It’s usually located on the supply pipe entering the flushometer.
• Main Body: The primary brass housing of the flushometer.
• Cover: The top cap of the flushometer, usually held in place by a coupling ring.
• Diaphragm Assembly: The heart of the flushometer. This assembly, often composed of a diaphragm, relief valve, and guide assembly, regulates the flush volume and duration. It contains a small bypass orifice crucial for proper operation.
• Handle Assembly (Manual Flushometers): The lever mechanism that initiates the flush.
• Solenoid (Electronic Flushometers like Optima/G2): An electrically controlled valve that opens and closes to initiate and stop the flush.
• Sensor (Electronic Flushometers): Detects user presence to trigger automatic flushing.
• Vacuum Breaker Assembly: Prevents back-siphonage of contaminated water into the potable water supply. It’s typically located on the flush connection to the fixture.

Common Sloan Flushometer Problems and Solutions

Let’s dive into the most frequent issues you’ll encounter and how to fix them.

1. Continuous Running Water / Flushometer Fails to Shut Off

This is perhaps the most common and wasteful problem.

Causes:

• Debris in Diaphragm Bypass: The tiny bypass orifice in the diaphragm assembly is critical for proper water metering and shut-off. Dirt, sediment, or even a gelatinous film from over-treated water can clog it, preventing the relief valve from seating properly.
• Worn or Damaged Diaphragm Assembly/Relief Valve: Over time, the rubber diaphragm or the relief valve (A-19-A) can degrade, crack, or become distorted, leading to improper sealing.
• Insufficient Line Pressure: If the water pressure drops significantly, it might not be enough to force the relief valve to seat and close the flushometer.
• Cracked Inside Cover (A-71): A crack in the inside cover can prevent the diaphragm from creating the necessary pressure differential to shut off.
• Wrong Relief Valve for Fixture: Using a urinal relief valve in a closet flushometer (or vice-versa) can lead to improper shut-off. For example, an A-19-AC (white) closet relief valve in a low GPM urinal.

Solutions:

1. Clean Diaphragm Assembly:
   • Shut off the water at the control stop.
   • Unscrew the main cover of the flushometer (often a large coupling ring).
   • Carefully remove the diaphragm assembly.
   • Disassemble the diaphragm from the filter rings and wash all components thoroughly under running water, paying special attention to the small bypass orifice. Use a soft brush if necessary, but do not enlarge or damage the orifice.
   • Inspect for any visible debris, cracks, or wear.
   • Reassemble and test.
2. Replace Diaphragm Assembly: If cleaning doesn’t resolve the issue or the diaphragm/relief valve shows signs of damage, replace the entire diaphragm assembly with a genuine Sloan kit appropriate for your flushometer model and the fixture’s GPM (gallons per flush).
3. Check Water Pressure: If the issue persists across multiple fixtures or after replacing the diaphragm, check the building’s water pressure. It should typically be above 25 PSI (1.7 bar) for proper flushometer operation. Address any low-pressure issues in your plumbing system.
4. Inspect/Replace Inside Cover: Remove the cover and inspect the A-71 inside cover for cracks. Replace if damaged.
5. Verify Relief Valve Type: Ensure the correct relief valve (closet vs. urinal) is installed for the specific fixture.

2. No Flush / Flushometer Does Not Function

If the flushometer isn’t flushing at all, the problem could be a few key areas.

Causes:

• Control Stop is Closed: The most obvious cause – the water supply to the flushometer is off.
• Worn Handle Assembly (Manual Flushometers): The handle components can wear out, preventing them from properly actuating the relief valve.
• Damaged Relief Valve: Similar to continuous running, a damaged relief valve can prevent the flush cycle from initiating.
• Completely Depleted Batteries (Electronic Flushometers): For sensor-operated models (Optima, G2), dead batteries will prevent any operation.
• Faulty Sensor/Solenoid (Electronic Flushometers): The sensor might not be detecting users, or the solenoid might not be engaging.
• Clogged Supply Line: Debris could be blocking water flow to the flushometer.

Solutions:

1. Open Control Stop: Ensure the control stop is fully open (turned counter-clockwise).
2. Inspect/Replace Handle Assembly (Manual): Check for looseness or damage. Replace the handle assembly or use a Sloan B-51-A handle repair kit if needed.
3. Replace Diaphragm Assembly: If the relief valve within the diaphragm assembly is damaged, a new diaphragm kit will resolve the problem.
4. Check/Replace Batteries (Electronic): For electronic models, check the battery indicator light (if present) or replace the AA alkaline batteries. Water usually doesn’t need to be turned off for battery replacement.
5. Troubleshoot Sensor/Solenoid (Electronic):
   • Sensor Range: Adjust the sensor range if it’s too short (refer to your specific model’s manual for adjustment procedures).
   • Solenoid: Listen for two distinct clicks when the manual override button is pressed. If no clicks, the solenoid might be faulty or disconnected. Inspect wiring and consider replacing the solenoid operator.
6. Flush Debris from Line: Briefly open the control stop with the flushometer disassembled (and a bucket ready) to flush out any potential debris from the supply line.

3. Short Flush / Insufficient Water Volume

A weak or short flush leaves waste in the fixture, requiring multiple flushes.

Causes:

• Control Stop Not Open Enough: The control stop might be partially closed, restricting water flow.
• Improper Diaphragm Assembly: A low-consumption diaphragm (e.g., 1.6 gpf) might be installed on an older, non-low-consumption fixture that requires more water (e.g., 3.5 gpf). Or, a urinal diaphragm might be in a closet flushometer.
• Enlarged Bypass Orifice: Corrosion or damage can enlarge the bypass orifice, leading to a quick flush and early shut-off.
• Diaphragm/Guide Assembly Not Hand-Tight: If these components aren’t properly tightened, it can affect the flush cycle.
• Inadequate Supply Pressure/Volume: The building’s water system might not be delivering enough pressure or volume to the flushometer.
• Obstructed Flow: Debris in the flushometer or the fixture’s spud can restrict water flow.

Solutions:

1. Adjust Control Stop: Slowly open the control stop further (counter-clockwise) to increase water volume. Adjust it until the fixture siphons properly, then back off slightly if needed to prevent splashing.
2. Install Correct Diaphragm Assembly: Determine the required flush volume for your fixture (check the label on the fixture or the flushometer itself). Replace the diaphragm assembly with the appropriate GPM kit. Closet refill heads (gray) have larger slots than urinal refill heads (black).
3. Replace Diaphragm Assembly: If the bypass orifice is enlarged, replacing the entire diaphragm assembly is the solution.
4. Ensure Hand-Tight Assembly: When reassembling the diaphragm and guide, ensure they are hand-tight before securing the main cover.
5. Evaluate Water Supply: If adjusting the control stop doesn’t work, assess the overall water pressure and volume in the building. You might need a plumber to evaluate the building’s plumbing system.
6. Clean Spud/Fixture Inlet: Ensure there’s no debris or mineral buildup in the spud connection or the fixture’s inlet.

4. Long Flush / Excessive Water Volume

Conversely, too much water per flush can also be a problem, leading to splashing and wasted water.

Causes:

• Control Stop Open Too Wide: The control stop might be excessively open, allowing too much water to pass.
• Wrong Diaphragm Assembly: A higher GPM diaphragm might be installed on a low-consumption fixture.
• Damaged Diaphragm/Relief Valve: A worn or damaged diaphragm or relief valve can cause the flushometer to stay open longer than intended.
• Dirty Bypass Orifice: While typically causing continuous running, a partially clogged bypass can sometimes lead to an extended flush if it affects the timing of the pressure equalization.

Solutions:

1. Adjust Control Stop: Gradually close the control stop (clockwise) to reduce the water volume until the fixture flushes efficiently without excessive splashing.
2. Install Correct Diaphragm Assembly: Ensure the diaphragm assembly matches the GPM requirements of your fixture.
3. Replace Diaphragm Assembly: If the diaphragm or relief valve is damaged, replacement is necessary.
4. Clean Diaphragm Bypass: Even if not fully clogged, a dirty bypass can affect flush timing. Clean it thoroughly as described in “Continuous Running Water.”

5. Leaking Flushometer

Leaks can occur from various points on the flushometer.

Causes & Solutions:

• Leak from Top of Unit/Cover:
  • Loose Cover: Tighten the cover with a smooth-jaw wrench. Hand-tighten first, then snug with a wrench (about 1/4 to 1/3 turn).
  • Cracked Inside Cover (A-71): Inspect and replace the A-71 inside cover if cracked.
  • Damaged Diaphragm Gasket: Replace the diaphragm assembly.
• Leak from Handle Socket or Handle Coupling:
  • Worn Handle Seal or Cracked Handle Bushing: Replace with a Sloan B-51-A handle repair kit.
  • Loose Handle Coupling: Tighten the handle coupling.
  • Worn Handle Gasket (A-31): Replace the gasket.
• Leak from Tailpiece (Next to Control Stop):
  • Worn or Degraded O-Ring (H-553): Replace the H-553 O-ring. Ensure surfaces are clean.
• Leak from Vacuum Breaker Coupling/Vent Holes:
  • Damaged Vacuum Breaker Sack: The rubber vacuum breaker sack can be damaged by over-tightening the coupling or simply from wear. Replace the vacuum breaker repair kit (V-651-A).
  • Missing or Pinched Gasket: Ensure the appropriate gaskets are in place and not pinched during installation. Lubricate with silicone grease.
  • Dirty/Scaled Pipe: Clean the inside of the vacuum breaker tube and the tailpiece where it connects, removing any hard water deposits. Use a brass bristled brush or a ball hone in a drill.
• Leak from Control Stop Screw:
  • Worn O-Ring in Control Stop: Replace the O-ring within the control stop using a Sloan H-541-ASD control stop repair kit.
• Leak from Spud Flange Coupling:
  • Loose Spud Flange Coupling: Tighten the coupling.
  • Worn Spud Flange Gaskets: Replace the F3 friction ring and VBF5 gasket (for 1-1/4″ or 1-1/2″ connections) or F5 gasket (for 3/4″ or 1″ connections).

6. Chattering Noise During Flush

This annoying sound usually indicates an issue with the diaphragm.

Causes:

• Diaphragm Installed Upside-Down: For some segmented diaphragms (e.g., A-156-A), improper orientation can cause chattering.
• Distorted or Damaged Inside Cover: Wear, freezing, or abuse can distort the inside cover, leading to improper diaphragm movement.

Solutions:

1. Reinstall Diaphragm Correctly: Remove the diaphragm assembly and ensure it’s installed with the correct orientation as indicated by markings on the diaphragm.
2. Replace Inside Cover: If the inside cover (A-71) is visibly distorted or damaged, replace it.

7. Water Hammer

A loud banging noise in the pipes after a flush.

Causes:

• Rapid Closing of Flushometer Valve: While Sloan flushometers are designed for quick shut-off, issues with water pressure or aging components can exacerbate the effect, creating a “water hammer” effect.
• Insufficient or Failing Water Hammer Arrestors: Water hammer arrestors are designed to absorb pressure spikes. If they are undersized, old, or faulty, they won’t effectively dampen the hammer.
• High Water Pressure: Excessively high static water pressure (above 80 PSI) can contribute to water hammer.

Solutions:

1. Check/Adjust Control Stop: Ensure the control stop is not wide open, causing an excessively fast flow. Adjust it slightly to see if the hammer is reduced.
2. Inspect Diaphragm Assembly: A worn or damaged diaphragm that closes too abruptly might contribute. Replace if necessary.
3. Inspect Water Hammer Arrestors: Ensure adequately sized and functioning water hammer arrestors are installed on the supply lines, particularly in high-traffic areas. Consider replacing older arrestors.
4. Reduce Building Water Pressure: If the static water pressure is consistently high, a pressure-reducing valve for the building’s main water supply may be needed.

Preventative Maintenance: Extending the Life of Your Sloan Flushometer

Reactive maintenance (fixing problems as they arise) is often more costly and disruptive. Implementing a preventative maintenance schedule can significantly extend the life of your flushometers and minimize issues.

• Regular Inspections: Periodically check flushometers for visible leaks, erratic flushing, or unusual noises.
• Scheduled Diaphragm Replacement: Even without obvious issues, consider replacing diaphragm assemblies every 3-5 years in high-traffic commercial environments, or sooner in areas with poor water quality.
• Cleanliness: Regularly clean the exterior of the flushometer using only mild soap and water. Avoid abrasive or chemical cleaners that can damage the chrome finish.
• Water Quality Monitoring: High levels of chlorine or sediment in the water can accelerate wear. Consider filtration if water quality is consistently poor.
• Use Genuine Sloan Parts: While aftermarket parts may seem cheaper, genuine Sloan replacement parts are designed to meet specific tolerances and material standards, ensuring optimal performance and longevity. Non-genuine parts can lead to premature failure and more expensive repairs.
• Proper Installation: Ensure all flushometers are installed correctly according to Sloan’s guidelines. Improper installation can lead to problems from day one.
• Educate Users: Encourage proper use and discourage vandalism.

When to Call a Professional

While this guide covers many common issues, some situations warrant professional plumbing assistance:

• Persistent Low Water Pressure: If you’ve tried all troubleshooting steps and still have inadequate pressure or volume, there might be a larger issue with the building’s main water supply or piping.
• Complex System Issues: For problems affecting multiple flushometers or an entire section of your plumbing system.
• Unfamiliarity with Plumbing: If you’re uncomfortable with disassembling plumbing fixtures or working with water lines.
• Specialized Models: Some newer or more complex electronic Sloan models might require specialized diagnostic tools or expertise.
• Warranty Concerns: Attempting unauthorized repairs might void your warranty.

Conclusion: Empowering Your Flushometer Maintenance

By understanding the inner workings of your Sloan flushometers and following this comprehensive troubleshooting guide, you’re well on your way to maintaining a reliable, water-efficient, and hygienic restroom environment. Regular inspection, timely replacement of worn parts, and adherence to preventative maintenance best practices will ensure your Sloan flushometers continue to perform flawlessly for years to come.